Roy Thompson said "Secrets of Bali is the best book about the island written and published since 1990 ...". This time I concentrate just on Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, which is a must for visitors to Bali. I've lived all my life in Ubud and have been involved in tourism: restaurant, shops, textiles, art, accommodation and spa, so I am sharing some of my knowledge, including some pitfalls.