It can be difficult to recall where you are exactly in Petite Italie, north of the border, where everyone speaks French. This was Montreal, the farthest point on our elliptical journey. When our Canadian relatives asked what we wanted to see in their city, we replied, "Food!" We were curious about what was available locally here at the edge (to our southerly minds) of the icy tundra. We took the subway to Chinatown and Little Italy. Here, like in the United States, the best way to get locally based cuisine appears to be to seek out folks who have recently migrated here from somewhere else. We drove by a few eateries that boasted "Canadian food" in addition to the main ethnic fare.