CHAPTER I. FROM PARIS TO BORDEAUX. Departure from ParisSubterranean DwellingsChâteau RegnaultToursChâtellerault AngoulêmeThe LandesCubzacBordeauxThe TheatreThe Cathedral St. Michael's TowerMummified CorpsesThe Museum CHAPTER II. FROM BORDEAUX TO VERGARA. The LandesArrival at BayonneInformation for TravellersUrrugne Saint Jean de LuzHuman SmugglingBridge over the BidassoaIrunTravelling with Mules Primitive CartsBeggar ChildrenSpanish BridgesOyarzunAstigarraga A Spanish SupperPucheroArrival at Vergara CHAPTER III. FROM VERGARA TO BURGOS. VergaraVittoria: the Baile Nacional and the French HerculesThe Passage of Pancorbo The Asses and the GreyhoundsBurgosA Spanish FondaGalley Slaves in Cloaks The CathedralThe Coffer of the Cid CHAPTER IV. BURGOScontinued. The Cloisters; Paintings and SculpturesThe Cid's House; the Casa del Cordon; the Puerta de Santa MariaThe Theatre and the ActorsLa Cartuja de MirafloresGeneral Thibaut and the Cid's bones CHAPTER V.[iv] FROM BURGOS TO MADRID. El Correo Real; the GalerasValladolidSan PabloA Representation of Hernani Santa MariaMadrid CHAPTER VI. MADRID. Bull-fightsThe ArenaCalesinsEspadas, Chulos, Banderilleros, and Picadores Sevilla the PicadorLa Estocada a Vuela Pies CHAPTER VII. MADRIDcontinued. The PradoThe Mantilla and FanThe Spanish TypeWater-Merchants; Coffee-houses of MadridNewspapersThe Politicians of the Puerta del SolPost-OfficeThe Houses of MadridTertullias; Spanish SocietyThe Teatro del PrincipeThe Queen's Palace; the Palace of the Cortes, and the Monument of the Dos de MayoThe Armeria and El Buen Retiro CHAPTER VIII. VISIT TO THE ESCURIAL. Aridity and Desolation of the CountryFirst View of the EscurialSombre appearance of the buildingThe ChurchThe blind CiceroneThe Pantheon PicturesAnecdote of Spanish Robbers CHAPTER IX. EXCURSION TO TOLEDO.